This London Fashion Week appears like a milestone second for Richard Malone, who’s displaying his spring/summer season 2022 present on the iconic Victoria & Albert Museum, whereas additionally launching a new collaboration with Mulberry. “I didn’t even suppose you could possibly do a present in that a part of the V&A,” the Irish designer tells Vogue, every week previous to the present. “It feels very dramatic.”
Malone’s rise by the ranks of the style business – which has seen him win the distinguished Woolmark Prize in 2020 and be nominated for the LVMH Prize in 2019 – has been a novel one, specifically as a result of he nonetheless operates on a predominantly made-to-order foundation, and strictly limits the quantity he sells to retailers. His supplies, in the meantime, are both recycled or sustainably sourced from mills throughout the UK and Eire.
“We don’t actually do seasonal collections, in order that they’re all the time simply titled on the date that they’re accomplished,” Malone explains. “For the previous couple of seasons, and this season as nicely, we’ve proven garments that have been already bought, which by no means occurs in [the industry]. It’s a really completely different approach of constructing style; it’s not inventing a personality or a client as a result of I do know all of them.”
The designer’s pioneering strategy has not solely helped him scale back waste and set up real connections along with his shoppers – who he describes as being from “a number of very completely different backgrounds” – but additionally construct robust relationships along with his suppliers. “We’ve by no means labored with factories all over the world in Portugal, Spain or Italy,” Malone says. “It’s actually fairly localised, so we will have a direct relationship with the tailor in Finsbury Park, with the knitter in Peckham; it’s fairly simple for us.”